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| Cape Maleas |
19th June – Kalamata to Porto Kayio
Weather forecasting can be a very
difficult thing to predict, which is why it’s called a forecast. The trouble
is, when strong winds have been forecasted, and you have an 8 hour sail ahead
of you, with very few safe havens on the way, you have to find the safest one
before the predicted weather arrives. What then happens is, because you have
chosen your safe harbour well, you sit for four days in not very much wind at
all, and wonder what all the fuss is about. Of course, it’s blowing a hoolie
out in the seas where you have planned to go. Of course our safe haven is a
very nice marina, but the most expensive place you can be stuck for four days!
However, after the winds had abated
we set off on the longest leg of our circumnavigation, to round the middle
finger of the Peloponnese. Steve and Jenny (Lilla) decided to leave very early
(6am or some ungodly hour that I didn’t even know existed!), we left at 08:45.
To say it was a tedious 8 hours would be making it sound interesting. Although
the coast is a dramatic backdrop of mountains, there was not enough wind to
really sail off, so the motor droned for the whole time, the seas were still
big and rolly because of the previous strong winds (which we expected), but
they were from the rear quarter, which just sends the boat all over the place
and makes for a very uncomfortable day. But you need the odd bad day to make you
appreciate the good ones, so I will stop complaining. Just thought I’d fill you
in!
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| Maniote towers and strange square buildings |
Porto Kayio is a strange little
place, a beautiful bay, with strange, extremely square buildings and a
monastery set in the surrounding hills. Apparently, so our guide says, it was
called Porto Quaglio by the Venetians, who used to salt and export the large
number of quails that were found here. Not anymore. High on the hill are the
Maniote Towers, which are from the Maniote Pirates who also invaded the area,
along with the Turks and Venetians.
20th June – Porto Kayio to Elafonisos
Elafonisos is an island not quite
at the bottom of the third finger of the Peloponnese, and is the ‘jumping off
point’ to go around Cape Maleas. Supposedly everyone waits here for the perfect
weather window, anchored in the beautiful bay on the south west side of the
island, swimming in cooling turquoise waters...yep, the wind is coming from the
wrong direction and directly into that bay, so we have to go to the less favoured
eastern bay. It was still pretty, but very very blowy and one of those places
you just wished the next day would arrive so you could get on with the dreaded
Cape Maleas.
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| Cape Maleas from the sea |
21st June – Elafonisos to Monemvasia, via Cape Maleas
Capes – David and I have rounded
a few capes in our sailing time, and they are to be treated with the utmost
respect, they can bite you, and we have been bitten – severely -Vivero Northern
Spain, Vincent Southern Spain. We have also been surprised... Cape Tarifa
(which is the most southern point of mainland Europe, and is only 14 miles more
southerly than the capes of the Peloponnese), has 360 days a year of strong
winds – we went round in flat calm, and had to motor all the way! Cape Maleas
was not dissimilar. We left ahead of Lilla and had to motor sail, but the wind
started to pick up a couple of miles off the headland, and we knew it would
drop of the minute we rounded the cape, as it did. Lilla on the other had got
their timing just right and had a lovely sail around the cape...Capes, who
needs them!
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| Monemvasia from the sea |
The Byzantine fortress town of Monemvasia, the “stone ship” referred to
by the poet Yiannis Ritsos, stands sentinel on the southeastern coast of
Laconia, ready to take its visitors on a historic journey back through the
ages. Castles, walls, old mansions, narrow cobbled lanes, churches, low arches
and vaults, coats of arms, imperial marble thrones, Byzantine icons all give
the impression of a town untouched by time. Referred to variously throughout
the ages as the Gibraltar of the East, the Castle above the Clouds, or the
Castle of Flowers, among others, it is situated on a small islet linked to the
mainland by a causeway and bridge, as if floating on the edge of the Myrtoon
Sea.
The single entrance that gives the rock its name (moni emvasia in
Greek) is a passageway into its past, beginning in the 6th century AD. As one
enters the main gate of the Lower Town, immediately above it to the left is the
birthplace of the poet Yiannis Ritsos. The main thoroughfare, consisting of a
narrow cobbled Byzantine street flanked by shops, leads to the main square
dominated by an old cannon and the town cathedral, the Church of Elkomenos
Christos. Directly opposite the church is a 16th century former mosque now
housing the Monemvasia Archaeological Collection.
From the main square a number of picturesque narrow streets fan out over
the Lower Town. One of these leads to the Upper Town or Goula, a steep climb
taking about 15 minutes, but a rewarding one for the panoramic view of the
Lower Town and the surrounding open sea glittering below.
Visit the restored church of Aghia Sofia, built on the cliff edge. In
all there are 40 churches in Monemvasia, including the Panayia Chrysafitissa,
Panayia Myrtidiotissa, Panayia Kritikias, Aghios Nikolaos, Aghios Stefanos,
Aghios Pavlos and Aghia Anna, as well as the silver and gold workshop and
museum.
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| Cobbled streets of Monemvasia |
It is the most wonderful place to
wander around, climb the cobble streets. Each of the properties has been
lovingly restored, somehow keeping the original concept but updating it with a
modern feel. It does have touristy prices though!
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| Rebuilding of Monemvasia |
However, the town harbour does
have its problems. One, it is renowned for being bouncy if you’re not on the harbour
wall. Two it is very shallow. Three, just where you need to drop your anchor it
is completely hard rock – they have put a marker showing where you should start
to drop your anchor, but of course no-one tells you that until you’ve already
dropped your anchor. Luckily for us, we have our own anchor-check diver with
us. Before we’ve even turned the engine off, Steve has swam out, dived down and
checked that our anchor is in. He’s done it everywhere we’ve been – what a
thoroughly nice chap.
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| Storm clouds gather over Monemvasia |
Also, on our first day, just as
we had decided to check out the old town, the skies darkened, the wind picked
up, and a storm was approaching, we
decided it would be best to stay with the boats – just in case. Of course, the
storm or rains never actually arrived, but you have to be careful.
25th June – Monemvasia to Yeraka/Gerakas/Ieraka
We’re on the home straight now.
We are heading up the East coast of the Peloponnese, where there are many small
harbours and town quays to drop in on, all within and hour or two sail. Next
stop an inland lagoon known as Ieraka (in the sailing guide and Google maps), Gerakas
(on the town quay, and if you zoom in on Google maps) and Yeraka elsewhere. We
call it wibble!
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| Wibble |
From the south and from the sea,
you cannot see the entrance through the rocks, we in fact went right past, and
not until we turned back did we see the opening – that and the fact that the
GPS was bleeping to say we’d arrived! Turning left and right between steep
cliffs on either side, you wonder what will be beyond, if anything. But beyond
is a tiny town, a huge lagoon, three restaurants and a proper quay to tie on
to. It had a proper bathing area with a shower provided and is beautiful and
peaceful. We stayed two days.
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| Wibble again |
However, the most interesting
thing we found out was after a walk up the hill to see the ruins (it has to be
done wherever you are in Greece). Chris and Gill, our friends came across a
graveyard, in which the graves were open and the skeletons had been removed,
placed into small boxes and left around the sides. Perplexed we enquired that
night at dinner, where were told that in Greece, after you have been buried for
three to five years, your body/skeleton is then removed and taken to another
grave site, in a smaller box. It is because there is not enough space in the
graveyards in each of the towns. It is a very common practice, not one we have
come across before – we actually learned something today J
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| Wibble's lagoon |
25th June – Wibble to Leonidhion
Twenty five miles up the coast is
the seaside town of Leonidhion, which was a nice enough place, had it not been
for the howling wind blowing over the harbour wall, blowing us off as we tried
to dock alongside. We were aided (I’m not sure David used that word), but a
local who knew nothing about sailing, boats or wind, and once he had hold of
our line was not going to give it back to me, even though we needed to make
another attempt at getting on the dock. However, he smiled very nicely as I
gave him €5 for his help!
That evening, having been given
an abundance of tomatoes from a local restaurateur, Margaretta, we all agreed
we should eat there, especially as Alhambra and Lilla would be going separate
ways in the morning. (Chris and Gill, their visitors, need to be back in Athens
in two weeks, and once again there are strong winds threatening). Dinner was very nice, the usual Greek cuisine,
and slightly better wine that we’d had the night before (I didn’t mention that
as we had tried to forget how bad it was). However, in the morning, it turns
out that Lilla was over charged, we were apparently undercharged and so Margaretta
sent her son along to sort it out, and give us a whole host of vegetables to
say sorry. Does anyone know a good recipe for aubergine and courgette???
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| Tyros seaside town |
26th June – Leonidhin to Tyros
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| New harbour at Tyros |
Having said our farewells, we set
out for Tyros, having been told it was worth a visit. Upon arrival we found the
town quay had been newly built, with an extension for extra protection and big
fender/bumpers on the wall. However, we also found ourselves in an extremely
strong crosswind which blew us all over the place as we dropped the anchor and
ran back to the quay – where upon there was not a soul around to take our
lines, so David had to jump off the boat with a line, I had to run down from
the anchor to take the line back and try and pull the boat straight and close
enough to the quay for David to get back on board...phew!
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| Local dance school performs |
Tyros is a very nice seaside
town, that had not quite come alive with tourists yet (it is still June after
all). We stayed two nights and were treated to a special evening from the local
girls dance studio who was giving a performance in the town’s amphitheatre. We
were then given a spectacular light show from Mother Nature, as we watched a
storm right overhead where Lilla had gone for the night. (Yes they were in it,
but safe).
28th June – Tyros to Astros
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| Astros's mermaid protecting the new harbour |
Another seaside resort, another
town quay...or so we thought. Our guide did not give a very encouraging report
on this quay, ‘poor holding, strong
katabatic winds at night...’ We’re only staying one night.
However, the view through the binoculars
did not make any sense ‘where are the boats on the town quay?’ ‘Why do they
look like they’re pointing the wrong way?’ Our questions were answered when we
entered – the whole harbour is being rebuilt. There is a very nice new stone
quay (still being finished off), and floating finger pontoons on which we could
go ‘side to’. (For the non nautical reading this, ‘side to’ is where we put
the boat length ways along a dock, and tie its bow and stern to the dock – no anchor
required, no walking the plank to get off, just simple nice docking – it is
also extremely good if there is any sort of strong wind forecast...watch this
space).
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| Alhambra side too at Tyros floating pontoon |
Upon further investigation, it
appears that the harbour was destroyed three years ago in a storm, and the town
decided to rebuild rather than repair, and do a proper, modern job. Landscaping
is still ongoing and final facilities to the quay and docks are not quite ready
yet, but we were told by the end of the year it will be finished. At that time,
large boats will not be allowed to go on the floating pontoons, as they will be
for local boats. But right now we can use them, and there is no charge.
Unfortunately, later that day and
night, it rained, so we didn’t get to see the town.
29th June – Astros to Nafplion
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| Calm waters to Nafplion |
We had ‘ummed and errred’ about
going to Nafplion – it’s a huge commercial port, reports of smells and sewage,
with a stunning fort at the top of a 1000 steps. With that in mind and knowing
that strong winds were due in the coming days, we decided that while we are
here, we really should go to the fort.
We tied to the quay, as close to
the town as we could, no-one came for any money. We found out there was a Lidl
nearby (we needed to stock up) and we headed out. By the time we got back it
was raining, and a storm in the distance. Storms are featuring a lot this week!
Once it had stopped raining we ventured into the old town and found a perfect
restaurant and had a lovely meal. We need all our strength for the steps
tomorrow.
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| 1000 steps to the top of Nafplion |
Differing reports and websites
give different numbers of steps to the top – let’s call it a nice round 1,000
steps – phew! Hard work, yes. Worth it, yes. Do it again, no, I’d take a taxi!
Palamidi is the fortress that dominates the city, in the sense that it
almost floats on a steep hill (216 m) over Nafplio. Between 1711 and 1714 the
Venetians built the castle (an amazingly short time), and this is in fact the
final fortress of importance the Venetians built outside their own country.
It’s also considered one of the most impressive. Yet, in 1715, one year after
completion, the Turks defeated the castle.
Nafplio is one of the first cities in Greece that won independence.
November 29th, 1822 a group of Greek rebels overpowered the Turks in Palamidi,
and the next day the city could celebrate its freedom.
From 1840 and for nearly a hundred years, Palamidi was used as a
prison, and in conjunction with this the stairs up to the castle was built. It
is often said that there are 999 steps, but it's actually "only" 857.
The walk is well worth the effort, the view of the city and the Argolic gulf
just gets better and better. Start in the morning, when the shadow falls on the
stairs, and bring water! If 857 steps are a little too overwhelming, you can
drive up to the "back” of the castle via 25. Martiou Street.
Palamidi is very well preserved, and it's evocative and beautiful to
walk on the worn stones, between the massive walls and buildings. Among other
things you can try sitting in the freedom fighter Kolokotronis' jail cell,
visit the Ag. Andreas Church and admire the eight bastions within the sturdy
castle walls. The huge water tanks contribute to the city's water supply even
today.
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| Nafplion fort - immaculately preserved |
All in all I’m glad we made the
effort. The smell in the harbour and town wasn’t too bad, we saw no sewage, we
paid over the odds for water, and failed to get any fuel, but other than that
it was worth it.
Now what’s that wind forecast to
do?
1st July - Nafplion to Vivari
The forecast tells us we have a
day in hand and decide to go to a semi land-locked bay ten miles down the
coast. It was very pretty, very protected, clear water and a couple of bars and
tavernas. Not much else to say really.
2nd July - Vivari to Astros
WE SAILED THE WHOLE WAY THERE...
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| Astros fisherman's quay, town and castle |
Sorry, I got a little excited
there. We decided to go back to Astros (it was not out of our way) to sit out
the forecasted strong northerlies, in the protection of this new harbour. We
got there with a day in hand, just in case everyone else had the same idea. A
few did, but at the most we were one of seven boats. News of this rebuilt harbour
has not got out yet!
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| Astros castle and ruins |
This time we took the walk
through the town up to the castle (didn’t I mention they’d got a castle), we
ate out twice (gyros and pizza), we failed to hire a car, but we met a few new
people and had a lovely few days. Yes it blew a bit, but nothing like on the
other side of the Gulf. We made the right choice.
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| Astros from the Castle - new harbour |
5th July – Astros to Porto Heli
Porto Heli has been described to
us a ‘beautiful’, ‘must go to place’ among other things. We motored across the
Gulf (as is our want after three days of strong winds), and entered the, yes I
must admit, beautiful entrance to the large, safe bay. ‘Go to anchor near the big green boat’ another voice said. But we
need diesel and as we came into view of the town quay we could see spaces – ‘you won’t
get on the town quay, there are never any spaces’ another voice had said.
David lined the boat up, I had the anchor at the ready, the wind blowing on our
starboard side (as always), and we begin to run back. There is no-one around to
take a line so we are preparing for David to have to jump off the boat again.
Then, out of no-where runs a small gypsy girl, about 8 or 9 years old, who
takes our line, ties it round the bollard and throws it back. She sits and
waits on another bollard, until we are ready to throw the other line. I go
below to find some change, which of course I don’t have, and she tries to
tell/show me that she has no shoes, that she is wearing flip flops for a 4 year
old. With my thinking hat on, and having taken my gullibility pill, I run to
our bag of old cloths, find my really old deck shoes and throw them to her,
thinking she would be grateful. Which she was. She also said she would come
back later for the 3 euros we owe her for taking the lines! She managed to
wangle 5 euros out of David as that’s all he had.
We took on water, arranged for
diesel to be delivered in the morning and found a bar for a drink and to find
out how the referendum had gone. Along walks our little gypsy girl begging for
money.
‘me
money, me money’ she calls
‘shoes’,
I point to her feet, ‘where are your new shoes?’ She is not wearing my
pre-loved deck shoes!
She looked at me with
recognition, stroked my arm and thanked me, she looked at David also with recognition
and the biggest smile came over her face, remembering he had given her 5€ and not the 3€ she had requested. She
then moved her siblings along, we assuming telling them not to bother us.
We were glad she had shown us,
that although she had been born into nothing, she had learned to provide a
skill to sailors, and for that she should be praised, and paid. I’m sure she
has no idea what is happening in Greece, or what effect it will have on her.
She only knows that in order to get paid, she needs to do something in return.
6th July – Porto Heli to Poros
There are a couple of places
along the Saronic Coast that we have not seen and for many reasons (too many
boats, not enough space, overpriced...) we decided to give them a miss and go
directly to Poros, 30 miles around the coast. Fortunately, we have agreed to
meet up with Steve and Jenny. They have dropped off their guests and have a day
in hand before they pick up their next guest, Steve’s 83 year old Granny!!!
We are now back in familiar
territory and we spend the next two weeks working our way back to the Corinth
Canal, and back to Messolonghi, where we will spend a week or so doing some
boat jobs. Then we head up to really familiar ground, The Ionion, to meet with
old friends and await visiting family and friends.
Finally... A word on Greece’s
currently crisis...
I have not ventured into the
tricky world of country politics, let along European Unions and Euros. No doubt
what you have been reading and hearing in the media is entirely different to
what we have been living. Yes we queued once at a cash point (the day they
closed the banks), no the supermarkets shelves are not empty, yes life is going
on, yes there are lots of tourists. We have asked many locals their views and
what they want, and yes you’ve guessed it, they just want to get the whole mess
sorted out so they can get on with their lives. Things may be different in
Athens and the larger cities, but in the towns and villages we have been to,
life has been carrying on as normal. Let’s hope the politicians can get this
sorted out as quickly as possible in order for life to carry on for the people
of Greece – whichever way they decide, it is still a beautiful country, with
helpful, smiling, hardworking people, just like the rest of us.
Until next time, as always, stay
in touch
Michele and Dave
On board Alhambra – Poros, Greece
